Pilgrimage to Motupe

During a long weekend in the coastal city of Chiclayo, Pilar, Sara and I took time to visit Motupe, a popular place of pilgrimage 60 kilometres northeast of Chiclayo. Motupe is famous for its miraculous cross, located in a grotto up on a mountainside. The cross was first discovered 141 years ago, and its hide seemed so inaccessible that the locals took for granted that it must have been placed there by the Virgin Mary herself. Since then, pilgrims flood the site.

Nowadays, the way up is tiring but nowhere near as tiring as before. Stairs lead all the way to the top, and the way is flanked by little tents where locals sell soft drinks, candy and souvenirs to pilgrims. It reminded me of Lourdes, a shrine in Southern France, which has over the years turned into a commercial circus. Buy a bottle of holy water, or take three for the price of two! A statue of the Virgin Mary adorned with twinkling neon lights, now for sale!

In the midst of all the commercial hub, the stairs up are lined with stations of the Way of the Cross.






After about an hour of climbing, we reached the grotto. The walls of the platform are lined with plaques where people thank the Virgin of Motupe for her blessings. It is customary to ask the Virgin for a favour, and if it is granted, you must return to show your gratitude. For example, many couples who cannot have children make the trip to Motupe (some even climb up the stairs on their knees) and ask the Virgin to bless them with a baby. It seems like many wishes have been granted, for the walls of the shrine hang with hundreds of photos of little children.




The cross itself stands in a small cave, surrounded by flowers and adorned with bracelets and rosaries. The devout reach out to touch the cross, say their prayers and light candles outside. I lit a candle for the health and happiness of my family. I didn’t ask for anything in particular, so I won’t have to return if my wish is granted! ;)








Annually on August 5th, Motupe celebrates its patronal feast, Fiesta de la Cruz de Motupe. On that day, the cross is carried down in a procession to a chapel in the town of Motupe. August is high season, and pilgrims have to queue to reach the cave. We visited Motupe in October, but even then there were hoards of pilgrims.

The shrine has changed a lot in the past decades. Pilar told us that when she first visited the sanctuary nearly thirty years ago, there were no stairs nor food or drinks to buy. The way up was a lot more arduous and dangerous, and if you forgot to take a lot of water along, you reached the cross dying of thirst.